Amaryllis, November 11, 2020

 

One of the other students gave us a picture of one of her flowers, an amaryllis, and our teacher turned it into a class lesson.

Source photo

source photo for painting: a red amaryllis back lit from the window behind
source photo for painting: a red amaryllis back lit from the window behind

Instructions

Written insructions for this project
Written insructions for this project

Dry fasteness testing

Testing for paint dry fastness of the paint for the veins on the petals
Testing for paint dry fastness of the paint for the veins on the petals

The instructions for this were to find a colour that would be both permanent and would not smear when painted over. I started with the basic set of Winsor colors: yellow, red, green, and violet (I didn’t try blue, though). What I discovered was that if there was a lot of pigment, even if completely dry to the touch, doing a wash of light aureolin (cobalt yellow) over them made them run, but that a medium light shade was just fine and dry-fast when the wash was applied. Since this was the effect wanted, and also the veins were pale to begin with, that worked out really well. I decided to go with the Winsor Violet, applying a light shade. This is shown in the next image.

Testing more colours and blending
Testing more colours and blending

I also did a couple of practice sketches of one petal, with just the veins, and another with the veins and the colours I wanted for the piece: Aureolin and Rose Madder Genuine.

Full practice page
Full practice page

Paint in veins

Painting in the veins of the flower petals
Painting in the veins of the flower petals
  • Winsor violet, very pale

Layer practice

Laying a base with 2 layers of light diluted aureolin
Laying a base with 2 layers of light diluted aureolin
Glaze a light layer of rose madder over 2 layers of aureolin
Glaze a light layer of rose madder over 2 layers of aureolin
Testing out colour layering, with 2 layers of aureolin, and 2 layers of rose madder on top of that
Testing out colour layering, with 2 layers of aureolin, and 2 layers of rose madder on top of that

I knew this project was going to retain it’s transparency and vibrancy only if it was built up in layers. I laid down 2 layers of diluted aureolin, letting it dry fully between applications. Then I put 2 layers of diliuted rose madder on, letting it dry between layers.

The technique is known as “glazing”, which sorta makes sense to me in the sense of the thin coating over what’s there already, and not blocking anything bouncing through the layers of pigment.

2 and 2 resulted in something more orange than I wanted, but was a great start.

Adding more rose madder for the overlapping petals
Adding more rose madder for the overlapping petals

Another glaze of rose madder in the places where the petals overlap, and some of the central veins of the petals.

full page of layering practice and tests
full page of layering practice and tests

Initial glazea on flower painting

2 layers of aureolin and 2 layers of rose madder over veins on flower
2 layers of aureolin and 2 layers of rose madder over veins on flower

More layers

Continue adding more layers, start layering with permanenet rose to get a little more blue
Continue adding more layers, start layering with permanenet rose to get a little more blue

Add in blue to create purple shadows petal formations

Adding some blue to make purple on the permanent rose for add depth to overlapping petals, and in the center and tips of the petals
Adding some blue to make purple on the permanent rose for add depth to overlapping petals, and in the center and tips of the petals

The image need some darkness in the overlapping petals, and along the central veins of the petals. Using french ultramarine in light glazing layers, I built up the purple / violet shading.

Testing colours for the stamens

Yellow Ochre

Testing if yellow ochre works for the pestals (it does not)
Testing if yellow ochre works for the pestals (it does not)

This really did not work well. If I had masked out the stamens, it would have been fine.

New Gamboage, Aureolin over White Gouache

Attempting to see if new gamboge would be bright enough, and then using white gouache with full pigmented aureolin on top
Attempting to see if new gamboge would be bright enough, and then using white gouache with full pigmented aureolin on top

Thinking since New Gamboge is opaque, it might show up well, but it, too, did not work.

Finally, I put some White Gouache over the test flower; when that dried I painted undiluted aureolin over that. This worked the best out what I tried.

It would have been better if I’d masked first, though.

Stamens on flower

Paint the stamens on the flower, using white gouache and aureolin
Paint the stamens on the flower, using white gouache and aureolin

Final painting

Final version of painting of amaryllis
Final version of painting of amaryllis

I am really happy how this painting turned out. It is too wide for a mat, sadly, so I don’t think I’ll end up hanging it.

Materials

Paper

  • Arches 140 pound cold press, 9×12

Brushes

  • Dreamcatcher #10 round
  • Dreamcatcher #4 round
  • Kolansky #2 round

Paints

  • Winsor Violet (veins)
  • Aureolin (Cobalt Yellow)
  • Rose Madder Genuine
  • Permanent Rose
  • French Ultramarine
  • Sap Green

Prints available

Art block:

Painting available as an art block

Framed Art Print:

Framed Art Print